Japan has a route that runs from sea level to the 3,776 m summit of Mt. Fuji, nicknamed "Zero Fuji", the single climbing route with the largest elevation difference in the country. Taiwan has a mirror image of it: the Shanhaizun (Mountains to Sea) National Greenway, 177 km long, starting at the mouth of the Yanshui River inside Taijiang National Park in Tainan and climbing all the way to the 3,952 m main peak of Yushan, a net gain 176 m greater than Fuji's. The idea was launched in 2007 by a community college in Tainan, approved as a national-level greenway by the National Development Council in 2018, and only completed its 8 stamp points and 19 waystations in June 2023. This guide pulls together official material from the Taiwan Thousand Miles Trail Association and the Forestry Agency to break down the 4 themed sections, the Paiyun Lodge lottery strategy for the summit section, and a full comparison with Japan's Route 3776.
1. 177 km to the Roof of Taiwan: What the Shanhaizun Greenway Is
The Shanhaizun Greenway (Mountains to Sea National Greenway, officially abbreviated MSTW) is one of the first three demonstration routes designated as national-level greenways in Taiwan, administered by the Forestry and Nature Conservation Agency under the Ministry of Agriculture (formerly the Forestry Bureau). The route starts at the mouth of the Yanshui River in Taijiang National Park, Tainan (elevation 0 m), passes the Chianan Canal, Wushantou Reservoir, Zengwen Reservoir and Alishan, then links to Tataka and finishes on the main peak of Yushan (3,952 m).
Unlike a typical day-hike trail, what makes Shanhaizun distinctive is that it stitches four completely different landscapes into a single narrative line: coastal lagoon, irrigation canals across the Chianan Plain, Indigenous villages in the Alishan range, and the high alpine ridgeline of Yushan. It crosses 2 counties (Tainan and Chiayi), 10 townships, 3 national scenic areas and 2 national parks, and links six cultural layers: Han settlement, Japanese-era hydraulic engineering, Siraya, Tsou, Bunun, and high-mountain ecology.
Not just a trail, a "greenway"
The term "greenway" comes from the National Development Council's 2018 framework plan for a national greenway network, and it is not limited to a single mode of travel. The official Shanhaizun guidance explicitly supports combining walking, cycling, buses and ferries: the opening stretch from Taijiang to Wushantou can be covered quickly by bike, the middle stretch from Zengwen to Alishan can be leapfrogged by bus, and only the final Sacred Mountain section must be walked. That gives ordinary hikers the flexibility to tackle the route in pieces and assemble a finish, rather than committing to a continuous thru-hike.
2. Who Built This Route? From 2007 to 2018
Shanhaizun did not begin with the government but with the principal of a community college branch campus. In 2007, Wu Mao-cheng, then head of the Taijiang campus of Tainan Community University, proposed a greenway across greater Tainan running from the coast to the mountains, connecting the history of the Taijiang inner sea with the irrigation culture of the Chianan Plain. The following year, the "Little Taijiang" group along with students, parents and teachers at Haidian Elementary School launched a river-protection movement; a 2006 public hearing on conservation of the Chianan Canal had already drawn then-legislator Lai Ching-te, and the community campaign snowballed from there.
After Lai was elected mayor of Tainan in 2010, the route was folded into city policy. In 2014 the 45 km "Tainan Shanhaizun Greenway" (Taijiang to Wushantou) was completed; in 2018 the Executive Yuan approved it as a national-level greenway, and the Taiwan Thousand Miles Trail Association, commissioned by the Forestry Bureau, took over planning of the full extension to Yushan alongside consulting partners. In June 2023, the 8 stamp points and 19 waystations along the full route were unveiled, which is when the route truly took shape.
So Shanhaizun is not a mature, decades-old route like UTMB or the Camino. Its physical infrastructure and passport system are only one to two years old. International recognition is low, few people have walked it, and information about individual sections is scattered across personal blogs and hiking forums, which makes research messy. That is the bad news, but it is also the good news: go now and you will meet almost nobody. The experience is pure, and the route is still in its exploratory phase.
Key timeline
2005-2006: Tainan Community University's Taijiang campus launches river protection work and a Chianan Canal public hearing.
2007: Wu Mao-cheng proposes the Shanhaizun concept.
2010: Lai Ching-te becomes mayor of Tainan and adopts it as city policy.
2014: The 45 km Tainan section (Taijiang to Wushantou) is completed.
2018: The Executive Yuan approves it as a national-level greenway.
June 2023: The 8 stamp points and 19 waystations open along the full route.
3. Mirror Image: Comparing It With Japan's "Zero Fuji"
Japan's Mt. Fuji Climbing Route 3776 (popularly "Zero Fuji") was designed and launched by the city government of Fuji, Shizuoka Prefecture in the 2010s. It starts from sea level at Tagonoura beach or the Fujizuka mound and covers 42 km to Kengamine, the highest point of Mt. Fuji (3,776 m), making it the official challenge route with the largest elevation difference on a single line in Japan. Finishers can mail their stamp record to the Fuji City tourism division to receive a certificate of achievement and a completion badge.
Placing the two routes side by side, you find that they share the same narrative (walk from sea level to the country's highest peak, collect stamps in a passport) yet are fundamentally different animals.
| Comparison | Shanhaizun National Greenway | Mt. Fuji Route 3776 |
|---|---|---|
| Total length | 177 km | approx. 42 km |
| Finish elevation | Yushan main peak, 3,952 m | Kengamine, 3,776 m |
| Elevation difference | 3,952 m (176 m more than 3776) | 3,776 m (largest in Japan) |
| Planning body | Grassroots origin → central government (NDC, Forestry Agency) | Local government (Fuji City, Shizuoka) |
| Suggested days | 7-14 days | 4 days, 3 nights |
| Finisher certification | 8-stamp passport + digital completion certificate | 6 stamps mailed in + badge + certificate |
| Cultural axis | Multi-ethnic (Han, Siraya, Tsou, Bunun, Japanese-era waterworks) | Single faith tradition (Fuji Shugendo) |
| Finish-line permits | Paiyun Lodge lottery (low success rate) | Free access to the summit; hut booking only |
| World Heritage status | None | UNESCO cultural heritage (inscribed 2013) |
| International visibility | Low (mostly Chinese-language) | High (global brand) |
The core contrast is this: Shanhaizun sells a cultural mosaic, Route 3776 sells vertical devotion. The former threads together many ethnic groups and successive eras of waterworks, farming and forestry over a long, low-density distance. The latter compresses the story of a single sacred mountain into 42 km, short but dense, backed by a Shugendo tradition running back to the 12th century and by UNESCO World Heritage status.
If you want a genuine Japanese counterpart, a blend of the Kumano Kodo and Mt. Fuji fits better than Route 3776 alone. The Kumano Kodo is likewise a multi-day pilgrimage across layered cultures, with water worship and a fully developed passport system, and it too is UNESCO-listed. So while marketing often calls Shanhaizun "Taiwan's Camino", in spirit it is closer to Taiwan's Kumano Kodo.
4. The Four Themed Sections: Inner Sea, Canal, Homeland, Sacred Mountain
The Thousand Miles Trail Association divides the route into 4 themes of roughly 30-50 km each, which you can complete piecemeal or link together. Each section differs completely in terrain, resupply, difficulty and cultural theme, so understanding these four is the first step in planning a trip.
Starting at the mouth of the Yanshui River, this section passes the Sicao Green Tunnel, the Taijiang lagoon and the southern trunk of the Chianan Canal. The old Taijiang inner sea silted up into what is now the Shanhua and Guantian area, and along the way you pass temples and irrigation works from Ming and Qing era Han settlement. The terrain is entirely flat plain, ideal for covering quickly by bike.
The historic heart of the Chianan Canal. It passes Wushantou Reservoir and the grave of Hatta Yoichi, crosses the Wushan Ridge on the East-West Entrance Trail (including remnants of the 3,110 m Wushanling tunnel), and arrives at Zengwen Reservoir. This stretch is a tour of Japanese-era hydraulic engineering: when Wushantou Reservoir was built in the 1920s and 1930s it was the largest in Southeast Asia and the third largest in the world.
From Dapu in Chiayi County, the route passes in turn through the Tsou villages of Chashan, Xinmei, Shanmei, Lijia, Dabang and Tefuye, then joins Alishan. The mid-section highlight is the Tefuye Historic Trail (6.32 km), converted from the old Shuishan forest railway: gentle, easy walking, and full of Japanese-era logging relics. Along the way you pass close to areas around the Tsou "kuba" (men's assembly house).
From Alishan via Tataka to the main peak of Yushan, the hardest section of all. From Tataka Saddle (2,610 m) to the summit it is roughly 11.5 km with 1,342 m of climbing from the Yushan trailhead. You must apply for a Yushan National Park entry permit plus a Ministry of the Interior mountain entry permit, and a bed at Paiyun Lodge is allocated by lottery.
Estimated distance and gain per section
There is currently no official published GPX split for each section. The figures below are an aggregate estimate from hiking forums and community trip reports, so check the latest notices on the official Taiwan Forest Recreation site before you go.
・Inner Sea Way: approx. 45 km, elevation 0-50 m, flat plain.
・Canal Way: approx. 55 km, elevation 50-300 m, gentle grades plus the East-West Entrance Trail crossing.
・Homeland Way: approx. 50 km, elevation 300-2,300 m, mostly mountain trail.
・Sacred Mountain Way: approx. 26 km, elevation 2,300-3,952 m, including the summit push on Yushan.
5. Must-See Landmarks and the Stamp Passport System
In June 2023 Shanhaizun officially launched a physical passport and a digital stamp system, currently making it the only national-level greenway in Taiwan with a complete stamp certification scheme. Collecting stamps is free, and a full set of 8 earns a digital completion certificate.
| # | Stamp point | Section | Cultural significance |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Taijiang inner sea | Inner Sea Way | Route start; lagoon ecology and the origins of Han settlement |
| 2 | Haiweiliao Chaohuang Temple | Inner Sea Way | Birthplace of the Taijiang campus movement, Wu Mao-cheng's starting point |
| 3 | Wushantou Reservoir | Canal Way | Built by Hatta Yoichi; third-largest reservoir in the world at the time |
| 4 | West Entrance "Little Switzerland" | Canal Way | The Wushan Ridge crossing on the East-West Entrance Trail, with alpine-looking scenery |
| 5 | Siraya people | Canal / Homeland | Cultural hub of the plains Indigenous peoples |
| 6 | Tsou people | Homeland Way | Tsou village culture at Dabang, Tefuye and beyond |
| 7 | Alishan Forest Railway | Homeland / Sacred Mountain | World-class forest railway heritage |
| 8 | Yushan main peak | Sacred Mountain Way | The finish; highest point in Taiwan at 3,952 m |
How to collect the stamps
・Physical passport: stamp it in person at the 8 stamp points. Passports are available at the waystations, though some require contacting staff in advance.
・Digital stamps: scan the QR code at each point through the official LINE@ account of the Taiwan Forest Recreation network; once all 8 are collected the system issues a digital completion certificate.
・19 waystations are spread along the route offering restrooms, water, charging and travel information, and they are a key reference when planning resupply points.
6. The Hardest Stretch: The Sacred Mountain Way and the Paiyun Lottery
The Sacred Mountain Way (Alishan → Yushan main peak) is the one part of the 177 km that you cannot simply walk your way through. On the first three sections you can choose to walk, ride or take a bus; the Sacred Mountain section must be covered entirely on foot, and it requires a lottery entry, permits, and a favorable weather window booked well in advance.
From the Tataka Saddle parking area (2,610 m) to the main peak of Yushan (3,952 m) is 11.5 km one way with 1,342 m of climbing. At the 8.5 km mark sits Paiyun Lodge (3,402 m), the only place you can legally spend the night up high. The standard approach is to hike from Tataka to Paiyun Lodge on day 1, then summit before dawn on day 2 and descend the same day.
The Paiyun Lodge lottery, step by step
Paiyun Lodge is run by the Yushan National Park headquarters and all beds are allocated by online lottery. The whole process from application to stay can take one to two months, so plan well ahead.
| Step | Timing | Action |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 months to 5 days before entry date | Apply on the national park online permit service (npm.cpami.gov.tw) |
| 2 | 15:00-16:00 exactly 1 month before entry date | Public draw; results posted on the system |
| 3 | Within 3 days of winning | Pay to hold the bed (NT$480 per person per night) |
| 4 | Several days before entry date | Also apply for the mountain entry permit (police agency system, separate from the park permit) |
| 5 | Entry day | Check in and verify permits at the Tataka control station |
Lottery strategy
・Avoid weekends and long holidays: weekday odds are noticeably better. If you can take leave to climb midweek, your hit rate rises sharply.
・Avoid April to June: rhododendron season and the run-up to summer break are the busiest. Mid-October to early December is quieter with stable weather.
・January to March carries snow risk: crampons and solid experience are required, which puts it out of reach for most people.
・Foreign visitors have a reserved quota: 24 reserved beds on non-holidays, with an application window 4 months to 35 days ahead, so overseas hikers have it comparatively easy.
・Alternatives: if the lottery does not go your way, consider a single-day round trip (start from Tataka before dawn and descend the same day, which demands excellent fitness and time management) or the Batongguan route up Yushan from Dongpu, a different line to the same goal.
7. Viability as a Long-Distance Trail Run: The 7-Day Traverse Record
There is currently no credible public FKT (Fastest Known Time) for Shanhaizun. There are two reasons. First, the route includes urban bike paths and road sections, so pure running-FKT logic does not apply. Second, the Sacred Mountain section depends on the Paiyun lottery, which caps how freely you can time a summit. The benchmark record at present is a 7-day, 6-night traverse by mountain writers A-Tai (Yang Shih-tai) and Dai Dai (Tai Yi-ting).
Invited by the Thousand Miles Trail Association, the pair walked the entire route in reverse (Yushan to the mouth of the Yanshui River) and finished in 7 days and 6 nights. Their trip has become the most frequently cited benchmark in media coverage, with reports and reflections published by the Environmental Information Center, Global Views Monthly, and a Verse podcast.
Common completion formats
・4-day speed version (not recommended): 40-50 km a day, wrecked legs, no time to look around, pure challenge.
・7-day advanced version: about 25 km a day, mixing walking and riding, the format A-Tai and Dai Dai used. Requires a solid fitness base.
・10-14 day standard version: 12-18 km a day, relaxed and unhurried, the best fit for most people.
・Section-by-section over a year: complete the 4 sections separately, wrapping up within six months to a year. Best choice if you cannot get away for a continuous push.
8. Resupply and Bail-Out Strategy: Where the Convenience Stores End
Resupply and escape routes are the most underestimated part of planning a long greenway. Along Shanhaizun, resupply density decreases steadily from start to finish: the early sections run through towns with convenience stores everywhere; the middle sections enter the mountains, leaving village shops and guesthouses; and on the final Sacred Mountain section the only resupply is a pre-ordered meal at Paiyun Lodge, with everything else carried on your back.
| Section | Resupply type | Key resupply points | Bail-out difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inner Sea Way | Dense towns | 7-Eleven and FamilyMart all along the route | Very low (a ride is always available) |
| Canal Way | Farm roads and small settlements | Convenience stores in Guantian, Dongshan, Nanxi, Yujing | Low (follows roads) |
| Homeland Way | Mostly village shops | 7-Eleven Dapu (last convenience store), restaurants in Dabang village | Moderate (8-15 km between villages) |
| Sacred Mountain Way | Carry everything | Alishan village, Tataka visitor center, pre-ordered meals at Paiyun Lodge | High (backtracking only) |
Why "the last convenience store" matters
Long-distance hiking has a concept called the last resupply point: the final place to stock up before entering a resupply desert. On Shanhaizun that is usually the 7-Eleven in Dapu (Dapu Township, Chiayi County). Past that you enter the Tsou villages and then the Sacred Mountain section. Buy all your non-perishable supplies here, and ship gels, trail food, headlamp batteries and anything else you need up high to a guesthouse in Alishan or to Paiyun Lodge for holding in advance.
9. Gear and Climate Notes
Shanhaizun spans tropical lowland to alpine tundra, a climate range equivalent to driving from Tainan to the Canadian Rockies, so gear planning has to be done section by section.
Subtropical southern Taiwan: little shade, intense UV, hot and humid in summer. Priorities: wide-brim sun hat, light-colored wicking shirt, large water capacity, sunscreen. Best walking windows are dawn to 10:00 and after 16:00.
Elevation 300-2,300 m, temperate climate with a wide day-night temperature swing. Bring a midlayer, rain shell (afternoon thunderstorms are frequent) and grippy soles (some primitive sections get slick).
Elevation 2,300-3,952 m, Köppen ET alpine climate. Yushan averages 4.4°C annually, with a record low of -18.4°C and four months of snow cover above 3,000 m. Essentials: down jacket, waterproof-breathable shell, warm gloves and hat, headlamp, trekking poles. Winter adds crampons and an ice axe.
Avoid typhoon season (July-September), the plum rains (May-June) and peak heat (July-August). Snow is possible on the summit from January to March, December is driest, and late October to November plus March to early April are the two best windows.
10. Cultural Depth: Hatta Yoichi, the Tsou, and the Island Traverse Narrative
Treat Shanhaizun as nothing but a trail-running route and you turn a color film into black and white: you miss the most valuable thing about it. Its designers deliberately stitched together cultures from different eras and different peoples, so each section is its own historical layer.
Hatta Yoichi and the tragedy of Wushantou Reservoir
The centerpiece landmark of the Canal Way is Wushantou Reservoir, built under the direction of Japanese engineer Hatta Yoichi in the 1920s and 1930s. On completion it was the largest reservoir in Southeast Asia and the third largest in the world, irrigating 150,000 jia of farmland across the Chianan Plain and transforming agriculture in southern Taiwan. Hatta's grave and a bronze statue stand beside the reservoir.
His story has a tragic ending. In 1942, while being sent to the Philippines on a survey mission, the ship he was aboard, the Taiyo Maru, was sunk by a US submarine and he died. Three years later his wife, Toyoki, drowned herself at the reservoir's outlet, commemorated today by a memorial stone. It is worth stopping here to read the history: this is precisely the design intent behind Shanhaizun, turning simple geographic movement into a cultural pilgrimage.
The Tsou "kuba" and the Tefuye Historic Trail
The Homeland Way passes in sequence through the Tsou villages of Chashan, Xinmei, Shanmei, Lijia, Dabang and Tefuye. The Tsou kuba is a men's assembly house, and only two intact examples survive in Taiwan, at Dabang and Tefuye. The kuba is the political and ceremonial center of the village and outsiders may not enter, so keep a respectful distance as you pass.
The Tefuye Historic Trail (6.32 km) that starts from Tefuye is a conversion of the old Shuishan forest railway: gentle the whole way, with Japanese-era railway relics, old-growth cypress forest and seas of cloud along the route. This is the most restorative stretch of the whole greenway, enjoyable even for hikers with only average fitness.
Yushan as a symbol of the island traverse
The main peak of Yushan is the highest point in Taiwan. From the Qing-era Batongguan Historic Trail, through the Japanese-era construction of mountain huts, to the designation of Yushan National Park in 1985, the meaning of this mountain has shifted from a summit to a national totem. Putting the finish line on Yushan means the designers consciously framed the route as Taiwan's sea-to-summit pilgrimage: the physical act of walking from sea level to the highest point of the country is itself a body-scale ritual that says "I belong to this island".
11. How I Would Actually Walk It
The best way to take on this route is not a single continuous 7-to-14-day push but a year of section challenges. Three reasons:
First, the Paiyun lottery is the ceiling on your schedule. You cannot predict months in advance that you will arrive at Tataka exactly on the entry date you happened to draw, so the Sacred Mountain section is best planned on its own. Second, the sections differ so much in scenery and rhythm that walking them back to back dulls the experience, while splitting them lets you savor each. Third, Taiwan's weather is volatile, and splitting the route gives you the flexibility to pick a good forecast for every section.
A suggested annual rhythm:
| Season | Section to walk | Why |
|---|---|---|
| October-November | Sacred Mountain Way (if you win the lottery) | Stable weather on Yushan, relatively quiet draw |
| December-January | Inner Sea Way | Cool in southern Taiwan, flat terrain suits cycling |
| February-March | Homeland Way | Cherry blossom season at Alishan, comfortable climate |
| April | Canal Way | Mild spring temperatures, Wushantou Reservoir at its best |
| May-September | Recovery + fitness building | Avoid the plum rains, typhoons and peak heat |
Plan it this way and you can comfortably finish all 4 sections, collect all 8 stamps and earn the digital completion certificate within a single year, walking each section in its best season with a light physical load and the best possible scenery. For most people, that is the version that actually gets done.
12. Sources
1. Taiwan Thousand Miles Trail Association, official Shanhaizun National Greenway information: tmitrail.org.tw/roadmap/1643
2. Forestry and Nature Conservation Agency, Taiwan Forest Recreation network, Shanhaizun section: recreation.forest.gov.tw/Topic/MSTW
3. Yushan National Park entry permit applications: npm.cpami.gov.tw
4. Environmental Information Center, "A 177 km national greenway you can walk on a whim": e-info.org.tw/node/221943
5. Global Views Monthly, "Guided by experts: walking Shanhaizun in 7 days": gvm.com.tw/article/69681
6. Hiking Biji, Shanhaizun National Greenway hub: hiking.biji.co
7. Hatta Yoichi Foundation: hattayoichi.org.tw
8. Mt. Fuji Climbing Route 3776 official site: route3776.jp
9. Fuji City government, Mt. Fuji tourism division: city.fuji.shizuoka.jp
10. Wikipedia entries for "Yushan" and "Mountains to Sea National Greenway", cross-checked in Chinese and English